80/20

80/20

Modern Thai in Charoenkrung

Modern Thai $$$ Charoenkrung ★ 4.5

80/20 is a modern Thai restaurant in Charoenkrung, Bangkok, led by chef Napol 'Joe' Jantraget and pastry chef Saki Hoshino. The name reflects the original sourcing philosophy of the kitchen: roughly 80% local Thai ingredients and 20% international products used where they genuinely add something. Since opening on Charoen Krung Road in November 2015, the pair have built a reputation for rethinking Thai cuisine rather than reproducing it, drawing on the decade they spent working in Montreal before returning home.

Fermentation, preservation, and foraging sit at the heart of the cooking. The couple started out running a home-based cannery, and that DNA still runs through the tasting menu, from pickled vegetables and cured fish to house-made sauces that lean on lacto-fermentation and aged chilies. The space is stripped-back and industrial, with exposed brick, concrete, and a kitchen bar that lets guests watch each course come together.

80/20 holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand and was awarded a Michelin star in the 2020 Thailand guide, cementing its place on the city's progressive dining map.

What to Expect

You arrive at a narrow shophouse on Soi Nai Loet 1, a short walk from the Chao Phraya River in the creative Charoenkrung district. Inside, you find a compact room with counter seating and a handful of tables, and a team that walks you through a tasting menu built around what was fermented, cured, or foraged that week.

Expect dishes that feel Thai in flavor but unfamiliar in form: a fermented rice porridge reworked as something closer to a savory custard, Thai wagyu tartare seasoned with local herbs and fermented chili, or a whole charcoal grilled fish finished with house sauces. Pacing is relaxed, portions are precise, and the staff are happy to explain the ingredients behind each course. Booking ahead is recommended, and note that the restaurant is closed on Mondays.

Highlights

The fermented rice porridge is one of the clearest statements of the kitchen's approach, taking a familiar Thai comfort dish and rebuilding it around controlled fermentation and seasonal aromatics. The Thai wagyu tartare leans on domestic beef and house-made fermented chili paste for a dish that reads as both Thai and modern, while the charcoal grilled fish showcases the team's restraint with fire and smoke. Across the menu, house pickles, aged sauces, and foraged herbs do most of the heavy lifting, and Saki Hoshino's desserts close the meal on a quieter, more precise note.

Location & Access

80/20 sits at 1052-1054 Soi Nai Loet 1 in Bang Rak, part of the Charoenkrung creative district between the river and Si Phraya. It is an easy taxi or tuk-tuk ride from Saphan Taksin BTS and the Chao Phraya ferry piers.

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