Lay Lao
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Lay Lao

Thai Isaan in Ari

Thai Isaan Ari ★ 4.5

Lay Lao is an Isaan restaurant in Ari, Bangkok, that has held a Michelin Bib Gourmand every year since 2018, including the 2025 Guide. It opened in 2014 and built its reputation on northeastern Thai cooking with a heavy Hua Hin seafood influence, which comes directly from the owner's coastal hometown. Most dishes sit in the 150 to 250 baht range, which is a large part of why the Michelin inspectors keep coming back.

The cooking leans on two things: charcoal and good seafood. Somtams arrive loaded with salt-cured black crab and crab roe from Hua Hin, squid shows up stuffed with its own eggs, and the grill works through pork shoulder, pork belly, and skewers all day. With 2,400-plus Google reviews averaging 4.5 stars, Lay Lao has become one of the more consistent bets for Isaan food in this part of the city.

What to Expect

You walk into a casual, homely room with rattan chairs, wood panelling, and painted corrugated steel on the walls. It reads more like a well-loved shophouse than a Michelin-listed dining room, and that is the point. Seating turns over fast at lunch and dinner, and there is usually a short queue at peak times on weekends, so put your name down and wait on the street if needed.

Service is friendly and quick. Order in rounds rather than all at once, because somtams and grilled items come out staggered as they are pounded and plated. English menus are available and staff will steer you toward the Hua Hin specialities if you ask. Expect to share everything family-style with a pile of sticky rice in the middle of the table.

Highlights

The Deep-Fried Squid with Lay Lao Sauce is the dish most tables order on sight: whole squid stuffed with Hua Hin squid eggs, fried until the skin crackles, and served with a house dipping sauce the kitchen guards closely. For somtam, go with the Som Tam with Raw Black Crab and Crab Roe, which uses salt-cured black crab trucked up from Hua Hin and tastes nothing like the chain-restaurant version. The Luang Phra Bang Green Papaya Salad is a Laotian-style alternative with a darker, funkier profile from pla ra. Off the grill, Charcoal Grilled Pork Shoulder comes sliced thin with a fresh nam jim jaew mixed that morning, and the Deep-Fried Pork Belly is finished in a caramelised sauce that is sweet, salty, and sticky in roughly equal parts.

Location & Access

Lay Lao sits on Soi Phahon Yothin 7 in Ari, a five to seven minute walk from Ari BTS station on the Sukhumvit Line. Come out of exit 3, head down Phahon Yothin toward Soi 7, and the restaurant is on the soi before you hit the main Ari food strip.

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